August 10, 2010 -- A lot has happened in the last few months. I just returned from Outdoor Retailer,
the enormous outdoor trade show in Salt Lake City. I ran myself ragged reporting for the show daily—a success—and seeing
all sorts
of old friends in the industry. It's always a fun, if crazy, good time. Before that, I went on a quick trip to the Azores.
I could have easily spent several more weeks there. If you have no idea what the Azores are, you are in good company. Nearly everyone
I know wondered where the hell I was going. They're nine volcanic islands poking up in the middle of the Atlantic some 900
miles off the coast of Portugal. Think old-world Europe meets volcanoes, hot springs, big surf, and rainforest. Fantastic.
After working and traveling far too hard in the last month or so, I can barely keep track of what stories have appeared in print, but I
can remember that a review of post-run shoes and products appeared in the July issue of Runner's World and a package
on America's best
adventures that I contributed to is now up on National Geographic Adventure's website. Stay tuned for more
fun stories coming out. And hopefully in the next century I'll get some photos up. Next big project: three months of intensive yoga teacher training here in Durango. Om.
May 17, 2010 -- My latest adventure was a yoga-backpacking retreat in Canyonlands National Park this past weekend.
Performing sun salutations on a high, flat rock surrounded by shocks of wildflowers and red-rock amphitheaters...priceless. I have a few stories out right now. My travel narrative on canoeing a quiet stretch of the Colorado River appeared
on the front page of the New York Times' travel section yesterday. And my feature story on fabulous trips in the Southwest now appears
on National Geographic Adventure's website. The mag went under in December, so it's gratifying to see the story in some form of print. I also just posted my story on neuroplasticity for Outside here.
Hooray for being productive! Now off to throw some ceramics, go for a bike ride, and do some yoga in the warm spring air.
April 22, 2010 -- I'm finally back in Durango for the long haul after some great travels this spring.
Most recently, my boyfriend Andrew and I returned from Peru. Both of us had spectacular gastro-intestinal blowouts on a trek around Ausungate,
but, as Andrew said, we got the "full Peruvian experience." After that, we convalesced in Cusco, where Andrew's good friends Bill
and Nicole live, and then we went to the jungle in Tampopata. The warmth and humidity felt healing, and we hiked and kayaked our
way around. Saw howler monkeys, dozens of multi-colored parrots at a clay lick, caimans, and capybaras, the world's largest rodent,
among other things. Now I'm back at the desk, working on a few stories. My essay about overcoming anorexia appears in this month's
issue of Rowing News. I also have a story on Torrey, Utah and Capitol Reef National Park in Sunset. I have a million ideas to pitch,
so hopefully they'll yield some tasty fruit this summer...
March 20, 2010 -- Between March 6 and April 13, I will spend precisely one week in Durango—this week!
I have a number of fabulous trips that are keeping me busy. At the moment I'm on my way back from Sedona, Arizona, where I hung out at a
marvelous resort with my 66-year-old mom and 86-year-old grandmother. We moved at a pace approximately 15 times slower than I normally do,
but that was kind of nice. Before that, my brother Andrew and I spent five days at Purcell Mountain Lodge, a heli-in backcountry ski lodge
in British Columbia. (Photos forthcoming.) We got snowed in and—poor us!—had to ski a bonus day in blower pow. I highly recommend the
lodge—spectacularly good food, a well-stocked bar, staff full of good stories, and jaw-dropping views. Plus the skiing wasn't bad.
I got to ride in the cockpit of the helicopter on the way back, easily the thrillingest thing I've done this year. Dropping over knife-ridge
passes...holy crap! Next up: two and a half weeks in Peru with my boyfriend Andrew (not to be confused with my brother Andrew.) In defense of
a lifestyle that probably sounds like pure hedonism, I did get a lot of work done earlier this year. I worked my tail off interviewing
nearly 20 Olympic athletes about health, nutrition, and fitness for NBC's website. Learning about their idiosyncracies was a hell of a lot of
fun. I'm still working on my Powder Feed blog at Outside magazine's website
through the end of the month, and soon I'll have a rather personal and
heartfelt essay coming out in a rowing magazine, among other stories. Stay tuned...
January 14, 2010 -- So far so good with 2010, except that I seem unable to write the date without crossing out
200- first. The good news is I have quite a lot of work these days. Actually there isn't much in the way of bad news, except for the
fact that National Geographic Adventure, one of my favorite magazines to read and write for went out of business in December.
I am still sad for my friends that worked there. That news also
means that stories I had in the pot about the
Southwest and Ecuador won't be published. Nonetheless I have a few interesting stories out in other magazines.
One is about using concepts of neuroplasticity
to reduce stress in Outside's January issue. I also have a story about Durango in Sunset, and my work
on The Powder Feed blog for Outside magazine's website is ongoing.
Meanwhile,
I've been doing a fair amount of backcountry skiing and Nordic skiing these days, both of which I love. My next trips
are to Crested Butte next weekend, the snowsports trade show in Denver late this month, and possibly a backcountry ski touring trip to British Columbia.
Oh! And Andrew and I just bought tickets to Peru for late March!
December 1, 2009 -- November, I've noticed, is far more pleasant in the West than it is in the East. Most of the
last few weeks have been bluebird, but maybe that has something to do with the fact that Andrew and I just spent about a week in southern
Arizona, hiking, biking, and doing lots of yoga at a destination spa for which my dad so generously gave us a gift certificate. I just got
over a number of
deadlines and now I have some welcome clear sailing. No exotic travels recently, just lots of fun in the Southwest. I just had a
couple of stories in the Boston Globe.
(Here's one on Telluride.
And I've been having a good time with my snow sports blog on Outside's website,
also known as The Powder Feed. I wholeheartedly welcome winter, so whenever you want to snow...
Nov. 10, 2009 -- This fall I've been taking advantage of the endless opportunities for adventure on my home
turf. Several weeks ago two friends, my boyfriend Andrew, and I hiked 10 miles down to aquamarine Havasu Falls in the Grand Canyon.
We snagged the best campsite by far: the last one in the campground overlooking 200-foot Mooney Falls. The best part of the trip was
undoubtedly hiking from Havasu down to the Colorado River and back. It was 12 miles of glowing-blue stream crossings, scrambling, route-finding,
cactus dodging, and scenery gaping, plus a sketchy fixed rope section. Last weekend we canoed the uber scenic section of Colorado River between
the Glen Canyon Dam and Lee's Ferry. It was more awesome than I even anticipated: red sandstone walls stretching more than 1,000 feet into the
sky and water so placid it looked silky, perfectly mirroring the cliffs and clouds. I also have some very cool stories coming out soon, so stay tuned.
Oh, and I'm now Outside's ski and snowboard blogger, so you can catch plenty of my snarky
attitude over there.
Sept. 15, 2009 -- Just back from a three-day canyoneering course in Utah's Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument. I learned
how to tie an overwhelming number of knots (munter, anyone?), negotiate tricky down climbs, and use whatever happens to be lying around for an anchor.
The canyons over there are endless and I've only barely scratched the surface. Very excited to spend some more time in Utah's chasms. Check out my photos
here.
August 19, 2009 -- Deskbound in Durango, a welcome state after the year's travels. Besides, there are reasons why I live here.
Like a day in which you hike through a crayola box of wildflowers to around 12,000 feet in the morning, head down into town,
walk a block to go tubing in the river, then cruise the 50-pound Schwinn Hollywood downtown for some sushi in the evening. Hopefully
all those East Coast city dwellers won't figure out our secret out here...
July 27, 2009 -- I'm back from checking out the newest and greatest gear at the Outdoor Retailer trade show, and I just
posted my photos from China. Check 'em out here. Spain photos coming soon.
July 17, 2009 -- Just back from a two-week trip through Spain. I went to a gorgeous wedding in Barcelona, road tripped through
Basque country and along the northern coast, and patrolled museums and cobblestoned neighborhoods in Madrid. The microscopic fishing villages
and inviting sandy beaches of the coast were highlights. Now I'm back in Durango and I'm about to head to Outdoor Retailer, the big outdoor trade show in Salt Lake City. I'm ready to put in some desk time and catch up on some writing. While I was away, my story about the Grand Canyon ran on the front page of the Boston Globe's travel section. Check it out here. Photos to come soon!
June 14, 2009 -- I am just now emerging from the fog of jet lag after a great two-week trip to China.
My dad and his Chinese wife, Angelia, built a house in Beijing and invited my brothers and me for a visit. Who am I to refuse a trip to China?
The house, a traditional courtyard home situated in a historic hutong in the center of Beijing, was the perfect base from which to explore the city. I learned how to whip up spicy stir fries in a cooking school, got "thoroughly cleaned" (i.e. scrubbed silly) in a bathhouse, watched Peking opera, and caroused at a developing bar district. We also took a side trip to the Buddhist mountain town of Wutai Shan, where a few dozen temples,
some as old as 2,000 years, stood amidst lush green mountains. Monks and nuns scurried around while vendors (new China) sold all sorts of schlock—Buddhas, incense, robes, books, postcards, nuts, fruit, jades, antiques, porcelain. We were the only Caucasians for hundreds of miles, it seemed, and the local pilgrims took photos of us as if we were zoo animals. We smiled in return. Why not?
April 23, 2009 -- It's taken me at least two weeks to emerge from the daydreamy haze of an 18-day, 226-mile raft journey through the Grand Canyon. It's hard to imagine a better trip. My boyfriend Andrew snagged
a coveted private permit for March 21, and off we went with 16 people, four rafts, a dory, and three kayaks. We saw only three other groups throughout our trip, which meant we had the soaring cliffs, slot canyons, desert wildflowers, turquoise waters, and bluebird skies all to ourselves. In the rapids, only one boat flipped and another dump trucked all of its passengers. I happened to be on both, so I got some nice swimming experience. No other carnage and no injuries, thankfully. Now I'm at home in Durango, starting a garden, trying to get back in shape after three weeks of happily drinking beer and sitting on my rear, and working on some various stories. This May, I have stories out in Spa, Trail Runner, and Outside. Next up: a weekend trip to Capitol Reef National Park and Torrey, Utah. I am a desertphile.
January 22, 2009 -- The new year brought boringly snowless skies to Durango, so I spent the past week in southern Arizona working on a
fastpacking story, also known as ultralight, ultrafast backpacking. Now I'm now on desk patrol, nursing an injured knee and catching
up on some writing, such as a story on diving the U.S. Virgin Islands, which I visited in December. Highlights of the trip:
spotting giant cobia and
rare endangered elkhorn coral, listening to an impromptu reggae jam in a St. John alley, and nearly catapulting off a sailboat in
28-knot winds. I have a silly but (hopefully) amusing story about dating in mountain towns
in Women's Adventure this month, and my feature on visiting the Huaorani tribe in Ecuador now appears on Away.com's home page.
Check it out!
November 21, 2008 -- Things are pretty busy here in Kateland. On Monday, I returned from a quick trip to the
Dominican Republic, where I hung out on the resorty eastern end—a change from my mountain-woman
lifestyle in Durango. That was after a weekend spent backpacking in Utah's Bullet Canyon, where a small group of friends and I
checked out Anasazi dwellings that were unexcavated. We found grinding stones, corn cobs and huge potsherds. It felt
as if they hadn't been moved since they were dropped centuries ago. In other news, a story I wrote with ecotourism guru Costas Christ on 50
top ecolodges appears in the November issue of National Geographic Adventure. I also have a review of women's jackets and
some brief profiles in the winter edition of the Outside Buyer's Guide. Next trip: a dive story in the U.S. Virgin Islands.
October 3, 2008 -- September may be my favorite month, and this year it was particularly great.
I spent it in Ecuador, where I visited the Huaorani, a remote Amazonian tribe that recently built a
small-scale ecolodge. I traveled by dugout canoe, learned how to hunt with a blowpipe (sorta), and visited tiny
villages where the women painted their faces with red pigment from a local seed. I also visited the
charming eco-minded Black Sheep Inn in the highlands, the Galapagos, and a community lodge in the cloud forest. To top off the
month, I went backpacking in western Maine, where the leaves paraded their flashy fall costumes. I'll
be home for most of October, enjoying the golden aspens around Durango and moving into my new house. P.S.
Check out my story on diving in Fiji in this month's Sport Diver magazine.
July 29, 2008 -- Sometimes you just need a change of scene—and when you're a travel writer,
you need a lot of scene changes. So in a bout of stir craziness and impulsiveness, I made reservations on Friday
afternoon, and Andrew and I high-tailed it down to Ojo Caliente Mineral Springs in New Mexico. We were just
in time to soak in a super-hot spring lit by a small wood fire. On Saturday we yoga-ed and drove
through the desert to an eco-conscious spa, where we hot tubbed, drank wine,
and did nothing productive whatsoever. On Sunday, we hiked down to the Rio Grande in the Taos Box canyon, happened
upon some petroglyphs, and took a very refreshing dip without another soul around. Add to all of that some killer enchiladas
and a cameo by a double rainbow and it wasn't a bad weekend. Now it's back to the grind. I just
finished up work for the OR Daily and am now working
on a big story for National Geographic Adventure as well as a number of short stories for Outside.
As usual, I have no complaints.
June 10, 2008 -- I just got back from a successful climb of California's 14,162-foot Mt. Shasta,
which benefited Big City Mountaineers, a non-profit that takes inner-city teens on wilderness trips. It
was a wild adventure. We started at 1:30 am and climbed 5,000 vertical feet up the steep and frozen West
Face with the help of crampons, axes, and ropes. At one point, an unroped climber who had lost his ice
axe came sliding past us at top speed. He slid 2,000 vertical feet before coming to a halt in some rocks.
Miraculously he wasn't seriously injured; nonetheless, an unnerving sight. By the time we topped out on the
summit, it was sunny and clear, and we could see wide views of beautiful northern California. Two weeks ago,
I returned from Iceland, where I watched minke whales, hiked in remote glacial valleys, scuba dived in the
fissure between tectonic plates, caved in a lava tube, and got lost while locating fabulous wilderness hot
springs. At some point, I'll post some photos. In other news, on Friday, my first piece for the Escapes
section of the New York Times was published. Check out my tale of rafting Utah's San Juan River
here.
The next two weeks I go to a couple of weddings, then I'm moored at harbor working for the first portion of the summer.
April 28, 2008 -- To celebrate the close of a fantastic winter with a bang, my boyfriend Andrew and I
splurged on three days of skiing in the Selkirks of British Columbia. We had a winning combination of powder snow,
clear skies, and good company. To celebrate the arrival of spring, I recently went on a three-day raft trip
on Utah's San Juan River, which has ancient dwellings, petroglyphs, fossils, and bizarre rock formations on its banks.
Work goes well, and I have a few exciting stories in the works. At the moment, my reviews
of women's hiking gear appear in the spring edition of the Outside Buyer's Guide and a review of lightweight jackets
appears in the May issue of Runner's World. My story on high-end treks appears in Outside's Go, and I have a story
on gelaterias in American Way, American Airlines' inflight magazine. Next trip: Iceland in May.
January 30, 2008 -- Last year my new year's resolution was to not make any more resolutions. I succeeded
swimmingly, but if I were to have a resolution this year it would be to update this column of my website more often.
Well, 2007 was a smashing year and so far so good for 2008. In the fall, I spent two weeks traveling and diving my way
through Fiji. I encountered 9-foot-long bull sharks, schools of trevally, and sea turtles. I kayaked through mangroves,
was wrapped in giant banana leaves at a spa, and tasted kava, the Fijians' pleasantly sedative and tongue-numbing beverage of
choice. I tacked on another week in French Polynesia, where I visited a private island an hour boat ride from a tiny
airstrip in Rangiroa, an atoll the middle of the nowhere. (About 90 minutes from Tahiti, to be exact.) The fruits of
that trip will appear in the February/March issue of Outside's Go. I had a feature on how climate
change is affecting recreation in the Northeast published in AMC Outdoors this fall. Other recent stories have appeared in National Geographic
Adventure, Outside, Men's Journal, Plenty, Sunset, and Hemispheres, United Airlines' in-flight magazine. The best news
of all, however, is the fact that the Durango is having the kick-assest winter in a long time. The snow gods
are smiling—and so are we.
May 18, 2007 -- This spring was filled with lots of fun trips, from heliskiing in the Selkirks of British Columbia
to kicking back on Martha's Vineyard. I have a few fun stories out right now as well. My account of learning to kiteboard
with my friend Kelsey appears in the May issue of Women's Health, and a gargantuan service story on the new world of
sustainable travel appears in the June/July issue of Plenty, to name a couple. In four days, I'm off on the next adventure:
a three-week journey through Botswana, Namibia, and South Africa.
March 7, 2007 -- This month, my seven-page guide to adventures in the Southwest appears in National Geographic Adventure
magazine. Happily, I have experienced some great trips in the Southwest myself recently. I went on a six-day hut-to-hut
ski tour through the San Juans, during which I skied waist-deep powder and witnessed the Brocken spectre. I also
went on a whirlwind road trip around southwestern New Mexico, stopping to eat chilis rellenos and bumbleberry pie
in near-ghost towns, explore cliff
dwellings, and meditate among white sand dunes. Other than losing one ski on a powder-filled slope while backcountry skiing, this
winter has been thoroughly enjoyable. Next month, I'll have a story about environmentally friendly gear in Outside and one on exploratory
adventures in Men's Journal. I'll also have an article on inspiring ecofriendly companies in Delicious Living.
January 15, 2007 -- 2006 proved to be a good year with many travels. During the summer I gallivanted around my
home state of Colorado, spending time in national parks like Rocky Mountain and Great Sand Dunes. In September I completed a
gonzo week-long backpacking trip through Wrangell-St. Elias National Park in Alaska; It involved glacier crossings, wading through
icy streams, three passes, and an 18-mile tromp out of the wilderness on the last day. In October I traveled to the other side of
the globe to trek, watch elaborate Buddhist festivals, and visit monasteries in the Himalayan kingdom of Bhutan. And in December I
learned to kiteboard in Florida. Already this winter has been fun, with a couple of big storms and lots of skiing in the backcountry,
with San Juan Ski Company Snowcats, and at Silverton Mountain. Work is ongoing with Men's Journal, Outside, National Geographic Adventure
and The New York Times. I have also had stories in Plenty, Skiing, and Parks, a new National Parks Foundation publication. Check out my
story on Bhutan in the February/March issue of Plenty, which hits newsstands right about now. They actually made my photos look decent!